Curriculum

The curriculum is primarily defined by the exercises we have solved, both weekly exercises and obligatory problems:

1. Oblig 1 due Thursday 3^rd October 2019, 14:30
2. Oblig 2a due Thursday 31^st October 2019, 14:30
3. Oblig 2b due Thursday 21^st November 2019, 14:30

Data for oblig: 1D.zip 2D.zip 3D.zip New_Year_Wave.txt rec_ekofiskL_hz2_20180921_134000.hz2

Introduction to the course:

Presentation on extreme waves

Introduction to waves:

1. Waves

Nonlinear wave theory:

1. Nonlinear

Fourier transform, Fourier series, discrete Fourier transform (DFT)

1. Fourier

2. Krogstad: Fouriertransformen - en innf?ring

3. L?w & Winther (2001): Fourier analysis   (from Samling av kompendier - Matematisk institutt)

4. Chapter 7, section 7.1 and the problems of section 7.7, of Lindstr?m (2017): Mathematical Analysis

Stochastic wave theory:

1. Stochastic
2. Chapters 1-4 in LINEAR WAVE THEORY Part B of
   LINEAR WAVE THEORY by Harald E. Krogstad and ?ivind A. Arntsen
   (you may prefer to use this repaired pdf instead of the original above, check that \(\sum\) and \(\pi\) come out correctly)
   Look at comments and corrections to LINEAR WAVE THEORY Part B (updated 26/10-2017).

Spectrum and Gaussian sea:

1. Gaussian waves
2. X-band radar

Additional material:

1. Draupner time series (thanks to Statoil): New_Year_Wave.txt
   - Sverre Haver (2004): Freak wave event at Draupner jacket, January 1 1995.
   - Jean-Raymond Bidlot et al. (2016): What conditions led to the Draupner freak wave? ECMWF Newsletter 148, 37-40.  (Read pages 37-40 for some recent results.)
2. Ekofisk 20 min 2Hz laser time series from 21. September 2018 at 13:40-14:00 during the Knud storm (thanks to Mika Malila): rec_ekofiskL_hz2_20180921_134000.hz2
3. Dysthe, Krogstad & M¨¹ller (2008): Oceanic rogue waves. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 40, 287¨C310.  (Read pages 287-291 for a nice review.)
4. Phillips (1958): The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Fluid Mech. 4, 426-434.  (read entire paper)